Hair pattern is only one part of the answer. Density, strand size, treatment history and the finish you want matter too.
Choose a starting profile below. Adjust one setting at a time.
First choose your main profile
| Profile |
Goal |
Starting point |
| Fine / low density |
You want body without pushing the hair flat. |
Low air • cold/warm • concentrator • lift at roots • finish cold |
| Straight |
You want smooth direction, shine and controlled flyaways. |
Low/high air • warm • concentrator • roots-to-ends direction |
| Wavy |
You want to keep movement or create a smoother finish. |
Low air • warm/InfraSonic • diffuser for pattern or concentrator for smoothness |
| Curly / coily |
You need inner sections to dry without breaking the pattern. |
Section • diffuser • warm/InfraSonic • lift/hover • finish cold |
| Thick / high density |
You need airflow to reach wet inner layers. |
High air • warm/InfraSonic • small sections • either attachment |
| Colour / chemically treated |
You want control on a more fragile or porous fibre. |
Low/medium air • cold/warm/InfraSonic • keep moving • finish cold |
Then adjust for density
| Density |
Adjustment |
| Low |
Reduce airflow around the roots. Use direction and lift instead of force. |
| Medium |
Start with warm and medium-to-high air; adjust by section. |
| High |
Use smaller sections and higher airflow so inner hair is not left wet. |
Then adjust for porosity and treatment
| Type |
Adjustment |
| Low porosity |
Move surface water first with airflow, then use controlled warmth. Avoid flooding the hair with product before drying. |
| High porosity |
Reduce uninterrupted hot exposure, use direction, keep moving and finish cold. |
| Bleached / fragile |
Use smaller sections, lower air around ends and cold/warm or InfraSonic conditions. |
| Keratin / relaxed |
Use directional concentrator work, controlled warmth and a cold finish. |
| Extensions |
Use controlled air and heat around bonds or tapes. Direct scalp light only to accessible areas. |
Then choose the finish
| Goal |
Attachment |
Technique |
| Smooth |
Concentrator |
Direct from roots to ends; use tension late; finish cold. |
| Volume |
Concentrator or no attachment |
Lift roots in the opposite direction of fall; finish cold. |
| Wave / curl definition |
Diffuser |
Cup or hover; reduce movement as the pattern sets. |
| Fast rough dry |
No attachment |
Use high airflow on roots and inner layers; add attachment for the final shape. |
Once you've found your starting point, see the exact steps in How to Use Lucine.
